Okay real talk — I put off getting this cut for almost eight months because I was convinced it would look weird on me.
My hair isn’t particularly thick, it’s not super fine either, just… medium everything. Medium length, medium texture, medium personality (kidding). And every time I saw the butterfly cut on someone, it looked incredible, but I kept thinking “yeah that works on her hair, not mine.”
Then my cousin Rimsha showed up to Eid dinner last year and I spent half the evening just watching her hair move. Not in a creepy way. In a genuinely fascinated, I-need-to-know-everything way.
She’d gotten a butterfly cut three weeks before. Collarbone length. And it completely changed how she looked — not dramatically, just… better. More alive somehow.
So I finally did my research, booked an appointment, and here’s everything I’ve learned since then — including the styles that actually work for medium hair, the ones that are overhyped, and a few things I really wish someone had told me before I sat down in that chair.
First — What Makes This Cut Different From Regular Layers
Because I asked this exact question and got a vague answer the first time.
Regular layers just thin out your hair gradually from top to bottom. The butterfly cut is more intentional — the shorter layers at the top are significantly shorter, creating almost like a “shelf” of hair that sits on top of your longer lengths underneath. When it moves, those two sections separate slightly, which is where that winged, floaty effect comes from.
It’s not subtle. That’s the whole point.
The 16 Styles — Broken Down Honestly
1. Classic Butterfly Cut, Medium Length
This is the one. The original. Layers starting somewhere around chin level, rest of the hair hitting the collarbone or just below. Face-framing pieces that curve slightly inward.
If you have no idea which version to get — start here. It works on almost every hair type, it’s not extreme, and it grows out gracefully which matters more than people admit.
2. Butterfly Cut with Curtain Bangs
I’ll be honest — I thought curtain bangs were dying out and I was wrong. Combined with butterfly layers they look really cohesive because the bangs just… blend into the face-framing pieces naturally.
One thing nobody mentions: curtain bangs need trimming every 5-6 weeks or they cross that invisible line from “effortless” to “I gave up.” Learned this from watching my friend Dania go through it in real time.
3. Wavy Hair Butterfly Cut
Wavy-haired people get the best version of this cut and I’ll die on that hill.
The layers work with the wave pattern instead of against it. You end up with this natural shape that looks like you spent time on it, even when you literally just diffused and left. If your hair is anywhere from 2A to 2C waves, seriously consider this.
4. Straight Hair Butterfly Cut
Still works, just needs a little help. A round brush blowout or a large barrel iron gives the ends that curved-under finish that makes the layers pop.
Without any styling, straight hair butterfly cuts can look a little flat — the layers are there, you just can’t see the drama as much. So factor in 10 extra minutes in the morning if you want the full effect.
5. Curly Butterfly Cut
The problem curly hair always has is bulk at the sides and flatness at the top. The butterfly cut flips that — volume at the crown from the shorter layers, definition at the bottom from the longer ones.
It also helps with the dreaded triangle shape. A lot of curly-haired people come back after getting this cut and say it’s the first time their hair has felt managed without losing its personality.
6. Subtle / Soft Butterfly Cut
For people who want the benefits but not the full commitment. Lighter layering, less dramatic length difference between the top and bottom sections.
You still get more movement and volume than a blunt cut, but nobody’s going to stop you in the grocery store to ask what you did. It’s the “I want to try this but I’m nervous” version. And that’s completely valid.
7. Shaggy Butterfly Cut
Choppier ends, more texture, slightly undone. This is the one that photographs best honestly — it has this vintage quality that’s really hard to put into words but you recognize immediately.
It suits people who don’t mind their hair looking a little messy-on-purpose. Not for the corporate presentation crowd.
8. 70s Feathered Butterfly Cut
Slightly longer top layers, feathered ends, big soft movement. If you’ve ever looked at old photos from the 70s and thought “why doesn’t hair look like that anymore” — this is why. And it’s coming back.
Center part looks best with this one. Side part makes it look more modern, less retro.
9. Butterfly Cut with Money Piece
Color + cut combination that makes both look more expensive than they are.
The money piece (face-framing highlights, usually 2-3 shades lighter than your base) sits exactly where the butterfly layers frame your face, which means it draws the eye right where the cut is doing its best work. Very intentional when you know, very accidental-looking when you don’t.
10. Butterfly Cut for Fine / Thin Hair
This is where the cut genuinely earns its reputation for me.
Fine hair is heavy at the bottom and flat at the top — the opposite of what you want. Removing weight through the butterfly layers flips that distribution. My mom tried this at 52 after years of flat, lifeless hair, and genuinely cried happy tears in the salon. I’m not exaggerating.
11. Butterfly Cut for Thick Hair
The goal here isn’t volume — it’s control. Thick hair needs the bulk removed from underneath, not the top. A good stylist will use a combination of point cutting and thinning shears to keep the fullness without the weight.
Ask specifically about this technique if you have thick hair. Not every stylist approaches thick hair the same way.
12. Side-Parted Butterfly Cut
The center part dominates social media but the side part honestly looks better on more face shapes. Square, rectangular, oblong faces especially — the asymmetry of a side part breaks up the geometry in a flattering way.
The butterfly layers work slightly differently here — one side has more dramatic framing than the other, which creates a really elegant asymmetric fall.
13. Butterfly Cut with Side-Swept Bangs
More coverage than curtain bangs, more commitment too. These sweep across the forehead and tuck behind one ear, blending into the longer layers on that side.
Great if you have a forehead you’d rather not showcase. Also great if you just like the look — no justification needed.
14. Textured Beach Wave Butterfly Cut
Sea salt spray, diffuser, maybe a 1.25″ wand for a few pieces — and you get this lived-in, textured look that somehow works for both a Saturday market run and a work call.
The shorter butterfly layers create these little face-framing pieces that curl slightly on their own when you use the right products. Genuinely low effort once you figure out your product combo.
15. Romantic Loose Wave Butterfly Cut
This is the version for weddings, dinners, occasions where you want to look like you tried without looking like you tried too hard.
Large barrel iron, 1.5 inches, loose waves throughout. The butterfly layers mean you don’t need much — even 6-8 waves through the whole head looks intentional because the layers give everything shape and structure automatically.
16. Grown-Out Butterfly Cut
This one I discovered by accident. About four months after my haircut, when I was overdue for a trim, I noticed my butterfly cut had grown out into this really nice, slightly-layered medium cut that somehow still had good movement.
The point is — even when it’s not fresh, it grows out well. That’s honestly rare for trendier cuts and it’s one of the reasons I’d recommend it to people who are hesitant.
What I’d Tell Someone Going for the First Time
Bring pictures. Plural. Not one.
I brought three photos and pointed at specific things in each one — “I want the layers from this one, the length from this one, and the texture from this one.” My stylist appreciated it and the result was so much closer to what I wanted than my previous attempts at describing hair verbally.
Also: tell them your actual routine. If you air-dry, say that. If you blow-dry daily, say that. The cut should work with your real life, not the aspirational version of your morning routine.
Products Worth Mentioning
- Kenra Platinum Silkening Mist — gives hold and softness without that crunchy feeling
- Not Your Mother’s Curl Talk cream — works on waves too, not just curls, and costs nothing
- Any lightweight argan oil — the fancy brands and the drugstore ones honestly perform similarly for this use
- Dry texture spray — adds grit and separation to the layers, makes everything look more intentional
You don’t need all four. Pick two based on your hair type and call it done.
The One That Didn’t Work (Promised I’d Include This)
My friend got the shaggy butterfly cut on hair that was already pretty damaged from bleaching. The choppy ends that are supposed to look textured just looked… broken. The layers didn’t have enough integrity to hold their shape.
Her stylist should have caught this honestly, but the lesson is: if your hair is compromised, either do a more conservative version of the cut or do a treatment first. Damaged hair and heavy layering don’t always cooperate.
FAQ
Q: How often do I need to trim it? Every 8-10 weeks to keep the shape. You’ll feel it when it starts losing structure — the layers get too heavy and the volume disappears.
Q: Will it damage my hair? No — it’s just a cutting technique, no chemicals involved. If anything, removing the dead weight through layers can make hair look healthier.
Q: Is it hard to style at home? Once you’ve practiced 3-4 times, no. The first week is always a little awkward with any new cut while you figure out how it behaves.
Q: What if I hate it? The good news is it grows out into a pretty normal layered medium cut. It’s not a drastic-change-that-takes-years-to-fix situation. Worst case, you wait 3 months.
Q: Does it work on short-medium hair, like just above the shoulders? It can, but the effect is more subtle. You need a bit of length for the two “sections” of the cut to really separate and do their thing.
Wrapping Up
Eight months of hesitation and I genuinely wish I’d done it sooner. That’s the honest summary.
The butterfly cut for medium hair is one of those things that sounds more complicated than it is and looks more expensive than it costs. Find a stylist who’s done it before (look at their Instagram — most post their work), bring clear photos, and have an actual conversation about your hair type before they pick up the scissors.
And if your friend shows up somewhere with incredible hair and you can’t figure out what’s different about it — ask. It might just be a butterfly cut.
